Scaly Leg Mite
Scaly leg disease is a skin condition in chickens that affects the legs. It is caused by a microscopic mite infestation that impacts the health of the scales on the feet. Scaly leg disease is caused by the knemidocoptes mutans mite, which is sometimes referred to as the scaly leg mite.
Scaly leg mites cause the bird intense irritation by burrowing under the scales of the leg then burrow deeper in to the dermis. This is the first layer of the skin that has a blood supply. They can also target the comb and wattle area. The first signs are scales becoming discoloured, if you know your birds you will be able to recognise this. As the infestation increases it produces a whitish film, followed by mounds of white or pale yellowish debris, but this will still be quite firmly attached to the leg so don’t pull off as the skin underneath will be raw and tender. On a dark-legged bird, the beginnings of the white crusts can be easily seen. There may also be a musty smell on the affected leg.
In severe cases it is advisable to treat the bird from the inside and outside. Administration of Ivermectin 1% is needed, applying 0.2 mg/kg onto the leg and repeated after 10 days. This is one of the fastest methods as it is absorbed through the skin, and effectively circulates through the entire bird, where it will diffuse out of the blood vessels and into the skin tissues the mites will be consuming. Ivermectin can also be given orally or as a spot on treatment directly on to the skin at various points on the bird, usually under each wing, the back of the neck and next to the vent.
Note: Ivermectin is unapproved for chickens but regularly prescribed by vets for the treatment of chickens.
Treatment will not kill the eggs. Scaly leg mites have a lifecycle of 10 days, so you must treat to kill the adults, then wait for 10 days until any of the eggs that had already been on the bird laid hatch and the next generation is created. Then give a second treatment to kill the second generation.
On the outside there are various options from manufactured sprays or surgical sprit to cheap edible oils (vegetable or seed oil) or Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to suffocate the mites. All of these are credible treatments and will work over time. Where possible, use an old toothbrush to work your product right into the damaged scales. The integrity of the oxygen barrier must be maintained (see below) for about two weeks.
After 2 weeks you should be able to see the affected scales beginning to shed.
NOTE: The eggs from birds treated with unapproved, over the counter products such as Ivermectin must be discarded from the time of the dose being administered. This is because no study has been carried out into the effect that Ivermectin has on the bird’s eggs.
When one bird is affected, it is best to assume that all your birds have been infected. The coop should be treated as you would for a red mite infestation (Click Here).
SUGGESTED TREATMENT:
Treating Your Chickens
The treatments below are for light to moderate infection:
A) Manufactured Sprays/Creams
Obviously the most convenient process is to buy an over-the-counter spray or cream. It pays to research these to see how effective they are and the best place for this is product reviews on places like Amazon. All products offered on this site have been extensively researched where deemed necessary.
B) Surgical Spirit
Submerge the both legs in surgical spirit for about 2 minutes, every second day for two weeks. After each treatment then smear Vaseline (or similar product) on the leg, this will cut off the air supply to the mites that are still present.
Day 1 – Genty wipe the bird’s paws and legs clean with a medicated wet wipe and either dip or spray surgical spirit on to the whole leg (dip preferred). When dry rub in vitamin A & D ointment to help repair the scales, use an old toothbrush to work your product right into the damaged scales. Then apply a thick coating of Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly which will flow into the spaces between the scales. Once there, it re-solidifies, locking itself in place and depriving the mites of oxygen.
Day 2 – Genty wipe the bird’s paws and legs clean and apply a thick coating of Petroleum Jelly Petroleum Jelly will attract bits of this and bits of that as the bird is walking around…don’t worry about it.
Day 3 – Make sure that the bird’s legs and feet are thoroughly cleaned and repeat the Day 1 process
Day 4 – Repeat the day 2 process
Repeat the Day 3 & 4 process for the rest of the two weeks.
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C) Vegetable/Seed Oil
Submerge the both legs in oil for about 2 minutes, every second day for two weeks. Fill a bowl/bucket with enough Vegetable/Seed Oil to cover the scaly part of the bird’s legs.
Day 1 – Submerge the both legs in the oil for a couple of minutes and use an old toothbrush to work the oil right into the damaged scales. Give a final dip before removing the bird. This needs to be done every other day for two weeks.
Day 2 – Gently wipe the bird’s paws and legs clean with a medicated wet wipe and then smear Vaseline (or similar product) on the legs
Day 3 – Make sure that the bird’s legs and feet are thoroughly cleaned and repeat the Day 1 process
Day 4 – Repeat the day 2 process
Repeat the Day 3 & 4 process for the rest of the two weeks.
This is a rather messy job and the oil will attract bits of this and bits of that as the bird is walking around…Again don’t worry about it. It’s probably better if you do this just before putting your birds to bed for the night
You will need to keep topping the oil up. But you can reuse any leftover oil when you have finished dipping for the day. Sieve the oil if necessary when recovering the excess oil.
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Treatment for Severe Cases
D) Ivermectin
in addition to one of the above treatments, the administration of Ivermectin 1% is needed applying 0.2 mg/kg and repeated after 10 days (see products below).
Applying a vitamin A & D ointment weekly will help to keep your chicken’s feet in top condition. Smearing a light coat of Vaseline to leg scales weekly will help stave off reinfection.
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Cleaning the coop (as per Red Mites)
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Remove all bedding and anything that is removable from the coop.
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Either bag and bin, or burn all contaminated bedding - Don’t put contaminated bedding on you compost heap
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Take anything apart that you can and toughly inspect it
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Scrub the coop, and anything that you have removed with a suitable disinfectant and allow to dry
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Spray a mite killing agent onto all surfaces and into all cracks and crevices and allow to dry. This should leave a coating on the surface and so continue working for a few days after the application has dried
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If possible, get something with a really high velocity spray to force the mite killing agent right into the cracks and hard to reach areas. Leave to dry after application
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When dry, spread a covering of bedding and nesting boxes with diatomaceous earth or similar. over all surfaces
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You can now put new bedding in the coop. When the new bedding is in, dust the birds perches, bedding and nesting boxes with permethrin or DE powder.